Clutch Cable | Honda 350-Series Twins

Clutch Cable | Honda CB350 / CL350 / SL350

A worn, sticky, or frayed clutch cable makes shifting unreliable and riding miserable. This replacement clutch cable restores smooth clutch action to your Honda 350-series twin. Available in two lengths to fit CB350, CL350 Scrambler, and SL350 motorcycles — select the correct length for your model when ordering.

Why You Need This

Over the years, the original clutch cable on your Honda CB350, CL350, or SL350 deteriorates. Rust and corrosion build up inside the housing, the wire frays near the barrel ends, and the cable becomes stiff and hard to pull. A sticky cable creates a vague clutch feel, makes it harder to find the engagement point, and puts unnecessary stress on the clutch lifter mechanism. If the cable is bent, kinked, or has visible wire strands poking out of the housing, it needs to be replaced.

We offer two cable lengths so you can order the correct one for your specific model or handlebar setup. Measure your old cable before ordering to confirm the right fit.

Specifications

Dimensions

Model-Specific Notes

• CB350 K0–K5: The 46.5-inch cable is a direct replacement for all CB350 model years (1968–1973).
• CL350 K0–K5 Scrambler: The 51.5-inch cable is a direct replacement for all CL350 Scrambler model years (1968–1973).
• SL350 K0: The 51.5-inch cable is a direct replacement for the SL350 K0.
• SL350 K1 & K2: The 51.5-inch cable fits the SL350 K1 and K2 but is approximately 1.5 inches longer than the factory cable. It works, but is not an exact stock length match.

Installation

Difficulty: Beginner

1. Loosen the upper cable adjuster at the clutch lever to create maximum slack in the old cable.
2. Disconnect the cable from the clutch lever perch and from the clutch lifter mechanism on the left side engine cover.
3. Route the new cable along the same path as the old one, following the frame and avoiding sharp bends or kinks.
4. Connect the new cable at both ends — clutch lever and engine-side lifter mechanism.
5. Adjust the clutch: at the engine-side adjuster, turn the adjuster counterclockwise until you feel resistance (this eliminates push-rod play), then back it off approximately one quarter turn and lock the nut. Use the upper barrel adjuster at the lever to remove remaining cable slack.
6. Check that the clutch lever has free play in the first quarter to one-third of its travel before engagement begins. The barrel adjuster at the lever only removes slack — the actual clutch adjustment is made at the engine-side adjuster.

Lubricate the new cable before installation. New cables do not come pre-lubricated from the factory. Drip a lightweight oil (such as Marvel Mystery Oil) into each end of the housing and let gravity pull it through. Work the cable back and forth to distribute the oil inside the housing. A well-lubricated cable feels smooth and lasts longer.

Our Cables 101 video covers the different types of motorcycle cables, how to identify a cable that needs replacing, and how to properly lubricate cables using Marvel Mystery Oil.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know which cable length to order?

Measure your old cable before ordering. The CB350 uses the shorter 46.5-inch cable (41 inches housing to housing). The CL350 Scrambler and SL350 use the longer 51.5-inch cable (46 inches housing to housing). If you have aftermarket handlebars, the length you need depends on the rise — low-rise bars typically work with the CB350 length, while mid-rise or scrambler bars need the CL350/SL350 length.

How do I adjust the clutch after installing a new cable?

First, screw the clutch lever barrel adjuster all the way in to make the lever free. At the engine-side adjuster (left crankcase cover), loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster counterclockwise until you feel resistance — this eliminates push-rod play. Back it off about one quarter turn and tighten the lock nut. Then go back to the upper barrel adjuster and remove the remaining cable slack until the lever has free play in about the first quarter to one-third of its travel. The barrel adjusters only remove cable slack — the actual clutch adjustment is done at the engine. For the full procedure, see our CB350 / CB360 Clutch Adjustment & Mechanism Rebuild guide.

My clutch pops when I squeeze the lever. Is it the cable?

A clutch pop is usually not the cable itself — it is caused by the clutch lifter mechanism being pre-loaded or improperly adjusted. The ball bearing plate inside the lifter rides on small ramps, and if the cable is adjusted too tight, the plate pre-loads on the ramps and pops past them when you squeeze the lever. The fix is to properly adjust the clutch at the engine-side adjuster (not the barrel adjuster at the lever) and make sure the lifter mechanism is clean, greased with wheel bearing grease, and has all its components — including the 5/16-inch ball bearing. See our CB350 / CB360 Clutch Adjustment & Mechanism Rebuild guide for the complete procedure.

Does this cable fit the Honda CB360 or CB450?

No. The CB350/CL350/SL350 clutch cable is specific to the 350-series twins. The CB360, CB450, and other Honda models use different cable lengths and end fittings.

You Might Also Need

• Throttle Cables — CB350 / CL350 / SL350 — replace all your cables at once for smooth controls
• Clutch Lever — if the lever is bent, pitted, or the pivot is worn
• Clutch Rebuild Kit — CB350 / CL350 / SL350 / CB360 — friction discs, springs, and gaskets for a complete clutch overhaul

Last updated: March 2026