COMMON MOTOR COLLECTIVE
Rear Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit | Honda CB350 / CL350 / CB360 / CL360
Wheel Bearings and Dust Seal for CB350 / CB360 Rear Wheels

Rear Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit | Honda CB350 / CL350 / CB360 / CL360

Your Price: $30.00
CMC Part Number:K10007
  • Qty:Sold Individually

Optional Add-On Part:
Wheel Bearing Retainer (#10022) (+$28.00)
UP: Rear Wheel Bearings (Rear Drum)
#10053 (x1)
UP: Rear Wheel Bearing (Rear Drum)
#10054 (x1)
UP: Wheel Bearing Dust Seal
#10044 (x1)

Rear Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit | Honda CB350 / CB360

Wheel bearings are what let your Honda's rear wheel spin smooth and true, and they are one of the most overlooked parts on these bikes — most are still riding on whatever the previous owner left in the hub. This kit covers the rear drum-brake hub on the CB350 / CL350 / SL350 K0 and the CB360 / CL360 / CJ360 with top quality European made bearings and a fresh dust seal.

Why You Need This

Worn rear wheel bearings let the wheel develop play and wobble — and it only gets worse the more you ride. If your rear bearings are oozing grease, feel crunchy when you spin the wheel, or show lateral play (back-and-forth movement perpendicular to the axle), it is time to replace them.

These are sealed bearings, not the kind you repack — once they are dry or contaminated, fresh ones are the fix. Our kit pairs the large drive-side bearing with the smaller brake-side bearing and includes the dust seal, with ample grease packing in both.

What's in the Kit

  • Drive side (large) rear wheel bearing
  • Brake side (small) rear wheel bearing
  • Dust seal

Specifications

SpecDetail
Fits ModelsCB350 K0–K5 (1968–1973), CL350 K0–K5 (1968–1973), SL350 K0 (1969–1970), CB360G (1974), CB360T (1975–1976), CL360 K0–K1 (1974–1975), CJ360T (1976–1977)
Sold AsKit (drive-side bearing, brake-side bearing, dust seal)

SL350 owners: This kit fits the SL350 K0 (1969–1970). The SL350 K1 and K2 (1971–1973) use a different, smaller rear drum and are not covered here.

Note: The bearing retainer itself is not part of this kit. If yours gets chewed up on the way out, grab a replacement retainer (also available as an add-on above).

Installation

Difficulty: Intermediate

  1. The factory bearing retainer is staked into the hub. Drill the peen marks ever so slightly with a sharp 1/8" drill bit — just past the surface, no deeper — then soak the retainer in penetrating oil.
  2. Heat the hub with a heat gun to expand the aluminum, then back the retainer out with the retainer tool. Heat is what gets retainers and bearings out without a fight.
  3. Drive the old bearings out with a long punch or drift worked at an angle on the inner edge — carefully, so you do not damage the hub. A hot hub will often give them up with light taps.
  4. Toss the new bearings in the freezer for a few hours before the job. Install the bearing on the retainer side first — that side of the hub has a seat lip that sets the depth — and account for every spacer that came out. On the 360 rear hub, one of the spacers rides on the bearing's inner race, so note where each one goes.
  5. Drive the new bearings in with a large socket or tube just smaller than the bearing's outer race. Do not press on the inner race or the dust covers — that damages the bearing.
  6. Reinstall the retainer with anti-seize on the threads — it should go mostly by hand once the threads are clean — then stake it in a few places with a center punch so it cannot back out.

Our wheel bearing replacement video walks through the whole job, front and rear, on this exact family of bikes.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know my rear wheel bearings are bad?

Grab the rear wheel and rock it side to side: any lateral play means worn bearings. Oozing grease, a crunchy feel when you spin the wheel, or a wobble that grows with speed are the other tells.

Do I need the retainer tool?

Strongly recommended. The factory retainer is staked into the hub and usually takes drilling, penetrating oil, and heat to let go — improvised tools tend to gall the retainer holes. The retainer tool seats squarely and works for both removal and reinstall.

Is the retainer included in this kit?

No — the kit is the two bearings and the dust seal. Retainers are available as an add-on above or as a separate part if yours gets damaged on removal.

Will this fit my SL350?

It fits the SL350 K0 (1969–1970). The SL350 K1 and K2 (1971–1973) switched to a different, smaller rear drum, so this kit does not cover them.

Will this fit my CB450, CB500, or CB550?

No — those bikes use larger rear bearings. Use the CB450 / CB500 / CB550 rear wheel bearing kit instead.

What else should I do while the wheel is off?

Inspect the rear brake. New shoes are cheap insurance while everything is apart: CB350 / CL350 / SL350 shoes or CB360 / CL360 / CJ360 shoes.

You Might Also Need

Last updated: June 2026

This Rear Wheel Bearing Kit Fits These Honda Motorcycles
1968196919701971197219731974197519761977
350CB350K0CB350K1CB350K2CB350K3CB350K4CB350K5
CL350K0CL350K1CL350K2CL350K3CL350K4CL350K5
SL350K0SL350K0
360CB360GCB360TCB360T
CL360K0CL360K1CJ360TCJ360T
5 Stars
CL350 Bearings
Bearings are great and fit easily if you use grease and a socket that fits the outer race. Getting the old ones out is a chore especially with the bearing retainer. I did the brakes at the same time to save my time in the future
Did you find this helpful?  3 of 4 Found Helpful
Reviewed by:  from Centreville, MI. on 3/17/2017
5
5 Stars
Mr.
Went on easy, the video really helped getting bearing retainer off
Did you find this helpful?  2 of 2 Found Helpful
Reviewed by: (Verified Buyer)  from Litchfield Illinois . on 12/5/2020
5
5 Stars
Knucklebuster
Bearings were an absolute necessity on my 49 year old bike, these fit like a glove after using a little heat on the hub and putting the bearings in the freezer. Work flawlessly.
Did you find this helpful?  1 of 2 Found Helpful
Reviewed by: (Verified Buyer)  from Houston. on 5/5/2020
5

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