Throttle Cable Kit for Honda CB360 / CL360 / CJ360
Replacement push/pull throttle cable kit for the Honda 360 family. Two cables in the kit — one pulls the carburetors open, one pulls them closed. This is a different design from the single 1-into-2 split cable used on the CB175 / CB200 / CB350 family; the 360 uses two separate cables routed in parallel to a linkage on top of the carburetors. Replaces OEM Honda 17920-369-000, 17910-370-000, and 17910-369-000.
Why You Need This
Your throttle cables are the direct mechanical link between your right hand and the engine. After 50 years, the inner wires stretch, the housings kink or crack, and the cables start dragging inside their housings. The diagnostic test is simple: roll the throttle, let go — the throttle should snap closed like a mousetrap. If it hangs, returns slow, or feels gritty when you work it, one or both cables are dry, frayed, or both.
On the 360, both cables work as a pair. The pull cable opens the carb butterflies when you twist the throttle. The push cable is Honda's fail-safe — if the pull cable snaps, the push cable yanks the butterflies closed so the engine doesn't run away. If one cable is broken, the other is on its way out. Always replace as a pair.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Replaces OEM Part Numbers | 17920-369-000, 17910-370-000, 17910-369-000 |
| Fits Models | CB360G (1974), CB360T (1975–1976), CL360 K0 (1974), CL360 K1 (1975), CJ360T (1976–1977) |
| Cable Type | Push/Pull (two separate cables: one opens, one closes) |
| Quantity | Sold as a kit (two cables included) |
| Length Options | Stock length only — no extended or shortened variants available |
| Idle Speed Spec | 1,200 rpm (Honda CB360 Shop Manual p.25; Tune Up Guide p.6) |
Important Notes
Replace as a pair. If one cable is bad, the other is close behind. The push cable doesn't get the daily wear the pull cable does, but they're the same age and they age the same way.
Carburetor sync is required after install. A new pair of cables changes the slack distribution at the throttle linkage. Plan to bench-sync the carburetors, then vacuum-sync once the engine is running.
Stock length only. If you've installed high-rise bars, clip-ons, or relocated the throttle housing, these cables may be too short or too long for your build. Custom cables from a fabricator are the path for non-stock bar configurations.
Model-Specific Notes
- CB360G (1974) / CB360T (1975–1976): Stock road bars. Cables fit as designed.
- CL360 K0 (1974) / K1 (1975): Scrambler bars. Same kit fits the stock CL360 bar configuration. CL360 production ended at K1 in 1975.
- CJ360T (1976–1977): Economy variant. Same kit fits.
- Aftermarket bars: See "Important Notes" above — stock-shape replacement bars are usually fine; relocated or high-rise setups need custom cables.
Installation
Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate. The cable swap itself is straightforward; the carb sync afterward is the time-consuming part.
Tools needed: Phillips or JIS screwdriver, 8 mm and 10 mm wrenches (jam nuts), Marvel Mystery Oil or light machine oil, light grease for the throttle sleeve.
- Remove the old cables from the throttle linkage on top of the carburetors. Note which cable end goes to the pull side and which to the push side. Photograph the linkage before disconnecting if you've never seen this design before.
- Disconnect at the throttle grip housing. Loosen the upper jam nut and slide each cable end out of the throttle pipe.
- Lubricate both new cables before installing. For each cable: loop it so both ends point up. Drip 15–20 drops of Marvel Mystery Oil into the upper end. Let gravity pull the oil down the housing. Work the cable back and forth, hang for ten minutes, repeat from the lower end. A dry cable feels stiff and won't snap shut properly.
- Lubricate the nylon throttle sleeve. Apply a thin layer of light grease to the sleeve and the inside of the throttle housing. A grease-and-oil slurry (light grease thinned with a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil) coats more evenly than pure grease.
- Route the new cables. Both cables run from the throttle grip down through the headlight area and into the throttle linkage on top of the carburetors. Keep the routing free of sharp bends and frame interference.
- Connect at the linkage. Each cable end seats in its position on the throttle linkage drum. The pull cable attaches to the side that pulls the linkage open when you twist the throttle. The push cable attaches to the side that pulls the linkage closed.
- Set the slack. Adjust each cable so there's just enough slack that the throttle returns fully closed when released, but not so much that twisting the throttle has dead travel before the slides start to lift. The carb-end adjusters set fine slack; the upper elbow handles coarse adjustment.
- Test before riding. Roll the throttle. Let go. The throttle should snap closed like a mousetrap. If it hangs, re-check the cable lube and the adjuster slack. If it feels notchy, check the throttle sleeve grease.
- Bench-sync the carburetors. A new pair of cables changes the linkage slack. Use a feeler gauge or the under-butterfly idle holes to set both butterflies at the same height at idle. Then run the bike up to operating temperature and vacuum-sync the carbs at idle (1,200 rpm) using a CMC carb sync tool kit or equivalent.
Our CB360 carburetor rebuild video Part 3 demonstrates the bench-sync process on the actual 360 carbs, including the mousetrap test at the throttle. Watch this before final adjustments after a cable swap.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between this kit and a CB350 throttle cable?
Different design. The CB350 (and CB175 / CB200) family uses a 1-into-2 split cable — a single cable from the throttle grip splits into two lower ends, one per carburetor. The CB360 uses two completely separate cables — one to pull the carbs open, one to push them closed. This is sometimes called a "push/pull" design and it's the same setup Honda used on the CB400F, CB500/550 four-cylinders, and CB750.
Why two cables instead of one?
The push cable is a fail-safe. If the pull cable snaps mid-ride, the push cable closes the carb butterflies so the engine doesn't run away on you. Honda added the second cable as a safety feature on the 360 and four-cylinder models. Either cable can fail independently, which is why we sell them as a kit and recommend replacing them together.
Are these available in extended or shortened lengths?
No. We carry stock factory length only. If you've installed clip-ons, drag bars, high-rise bars, or relocated the throttle housing, you'll likely need custom cables from a fabricator like Motion Pro or Revival Cycles.
Will these fit my CL360 with stock bars?
Yes. Stock CL360 bars work with this cable kit even though they're scrambler-shape rather than CB road bars. The kit was designed to fit the CB360G, CB360T, CL360 K0, CL360 K1, and CJ360T as factory-equipped.
Do I need to sync the carburetors after replacing the cables?
Yes. New cables change the slack distribution between the throttle grip, the linkage, and the carb butterflies. Plan to bench-sync the carbs (slides at the same height at idle) and then vacuum-sync once the engine is at operating temperature. Idle speed should land at 1,200 rpm per Honda's spec. Our CB360 carb sync tool kit and KB article walk through both steps.
How do I know if my throttle cables are actually the problem?
Roll the throttle and let go. A good cable pair returns the throttle instantly — snaps shut like a mousetrap. A worn pair hangs, drags, or returns slowly. Visual signs: bent or squashed barrel ends, rusty wire poking out of the housing, frayed strands at the barrel, cracked or chewed housing. If you see any of those on either cable, replace the pair.
How often should I lubricate these cables?
Lubricate before installing — cables ship dry from the factory. After that, an annual lube during your spring tune-up keeps things smooth. If the throttle starts feeling gritty or returning slowly, it's time to lube again. The U-loop method with Marvel Mystery Oil takes about ten minutes per cable.
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Last updated: May 2026
