Carburetor Rebuild Kit | Honda CB360 / CL360 / CJ360

Carburetor Rebuild Kit | Honda CB360 / CL360 / CJ360

The factory Keihin CV carburetors on the Honda 360 twins are tough, but after decades of sitting they fill with varnish and corroded brass. This rebuild kit replaces all the wear items inside a single carburetor body — jets, float needle and seat, emulsifier tubes, discharge nozzle, and all four O-rings. Assembled in-house at Common Motor Collective.

Note: Kits are sold individually. You will need to order TWO kits to service both carburetors.

Why You Need This

Stale fuel degrades in as little as 6–12 weeks. The varnish it leaves behind clogs the tiny passages inside the Keihin 745-series carburetors and corrodes the brass jets. Symptoms include hard starting, rough idle, bogging under throttle, poor fuel economy, and fuel leaking from the float bowl drain. A full rebuild with fresh brass and new seals is the only reliable fix — carb cleaner alone will not dissolve hardened varnish deposits inside jet orifices.

This is the most complete CB360 / CL360 / CJ360 carburetor rebuild kit on the market. Every brass piece and O-ring is included so you can do the job once and do it right. No substandard knockoffs — precision-engineered components assembled in Houston, TX.

Specifications

What's in the Kit

• Main jet #100 and #105 (down from the factory #110 for improved performance with stock air filters)
• Secondary jet #68
• Pilot / slow-speed jet #35
• Float needle and seat with retaining screw and O-ring
• Main and secondary emulsifier tubes
• Main discharge nozzle
• Vacuum port plug and idle jet passage plug (x2)
• Main jet needle
• Idle mixture screw with spring and O-ring
• Float bowl O-ring
• Float needle seat O-ring
• Drain plug O-ring

Installation

Difficulty: Intermediate

1. Remove the carburetors from the bike and separate them from the backing plate
2. Remove the float bowl, all jets, emulsifier tubes, float needle and seat, idle mixture screw, and passage plugs
3. Clean every passage with compressed air and fine wire — the carb body should be spotless before reassembly
4. Install the secondary emulsifier tube first, pressing gently into place with a screwdriver
5. Thread in the secondary jet (#68), then the pilot jet (#35) — snug only, do not overtighten brass fittings
6. Install the primary emulsifier tube (hex head), then thread in the main jet
7. Install the float needle seat with its O-ring, then the retaining clip and screw
8. Set the float and adjust the float height to 16 mm rather than the factory 18.5 mm spec — this often yields better real-world results
9. Install the float bowl with a new O-ring, the drain plug with its O-ring, and the idle mixture screw with its spring and O-ring

Idle mixture screw baseline: Turn the idle mixture screw gently all the way in, then back out 2 full turns as a starting point. Final adjustment should be made with the engine at operating temperature and idle set to 1,200 rpm.

Our CB360 Carburetor Rebuild Parts Overview video walks through every component in the kit, where each piece goes, and what additional parts you may need depending on the condition of your carburetors.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between the Rebuild Kit and the O-Ring Kit?

The rebuild kit includes all new brass jets, float needle and seat, emulsifier tubes, discharge nozzle, and O-rings — everything for a full carburetor restoration. The O-Ring Kit is just the four seals (float bowl, needle seat, drain plug, idle needle). Use the O-ring kit if your brass is in good shape and you only need fresh seals. One O-ring kit does both carburetors; the rebuild kit covers one.

Why does the kit include a #100 main jet instead of the factory #110?

The factory #110 main jet was the original Honda spec. With stock air filters, a #100 main jet often runs better in practice. The kit also includes a #105 for fine-tuning. If you are running pod filters or aftermarket exhaust, you may need to jet up — our Main Jet Kit includes five pairs of jets (#102, #105, #108, #112, #115) plus secondary jets and fresh float bowl gaskets for tuning.

Do I need to replace the carburetor diaphragms too?

The diaphragms are not included in the rebuild kit because they have about a 50/50 chance of being reusable. Inspect yours carefully for cracks, tears, or stiffness. If the diaphragm is damaged, the slide will not lift properly and the bike will bog or hesitate under throttle. Replacement CB360 Carburetor Diaphragms are sold individually.

Should I replace the intake manifolds while the carbs are off?

Yes. The original rubber intake manifolds harden over time and no longer seal against the cylinder head, causing vacuum leaks that make tuning impossible. Fresh Intake Manifolds are one of the parts we recommend changing on every twin rebuild regardless of apparent condition.

You Might Also Need

• Carburetor O-Ring Kit — just the four seals if your brass is still good (one kit does both carbs)
• Carburetor Diaphragm — CB360/CL360/CJ360 — replacement slide diaphragm (sold individually)
• Main Jet Kit — CB360/CL360/CJ360 — five pairs of main jets plus secondary jets for tuning with pod filters or aftermarket exhaust
• Intake Manifolds — CB360/CL360/CJ360 — rubber carb boots with gaskets and stainless clamps

Last updated: March 2026