Exhaust Collars | Honda CB360 / CL360
The split collars are what clamp your header pipes to the cylinder head, and they commonly go missing. If yours are gone, mangled, or were never there when you bought the bike, these are the replacements.
Why You Need This
Each collar is a two-piece split ring that sits between the exhaust header and the nuts holding it to the head. Honda calls it the exhaust pipe joint collar, and it is a required part of that joint — the pipe does not seat or seal without it.
They come off the bike easily and get set down in a coffee can during a top-end job, which is why so many of these bikes turn up missing one or both. Ours may not look exactly like the originals, but they are OEM Honda parts and fit the models listed below.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Honda Part Name | Exhaust pipe joint collar |
| Fits Models | CB360G (1974), CB360T (1975–1976), CL360 K0 (1974), CL360 K1 (1975) |
| Sold As | Sold individually. Two collar halves make one cylinder’s collar — order 2 for one cylinder, 4 to do both. |
How many to order. Two halves make one complete collar, which covers one cylinder. So one cylinder takes 2 and a full bike takes 4. It is a question we get a lot, and ordering 2 when you meant to do both sides is an easy one to get wrong.
Model-Specific Notes
- CJ360: these do not fit as they come. The CJ360 is the only 360 in the family that left the factory with a 2-into-1 exhaust, and it uses larger diameter headers — the same size as the CB450’s — with a unique collar that is now very hard to find. Ours can be modified to work. Our CJ360 exhaust collar guide has the grinding and bending specs.
- CB350 / CL350: a different collar with a different Honda part number. Order our Exhaust Collars | Honda CB350 / CL350 instead.
- Also fits: Honda FT500 Ascot.
Installation
Difficulty: Beginner
Tools needed: 12 mm wrench or socket, anti-seize
- Back the exhaust flange nuts off with a 12 mm wrench and pull the header pipe clear of the head.
- Put anti-seize on the exhaust stud threads while the pipe is off. These get hot and see a lot of action, and the studs are miserable to deal with once they seize.
- Fit the collar halves around the header with the beveled side facing out toward the flange and the flat side facing in toward the engine. The flat side is what pushes the pipe into the gasket.
- Start the nuts by hand and leave them loose. You want the header free to move while you line up the muffler.
- Once the whole exhaust is aligned, snug the flange nuts down. Do not lean on them.
Snug, not tight. These nuts will keep turning and keep crushing the copper gasket at the head. Past a certain point you are not sealing anything better, you are just flattening the gasket and setting up the next leak.
Getting all the pieces to line up at once can be fiddly. Take the time on the first side before you commit to tightening anything.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many do I need to order?
Two per cylinder, four for the whole bike. Each unit is one half of a collar, and it takes two halves to make one complete collar around a header pipe.
Which way do the collars face?
Beveled side out toward the exhaust flange, flat side in toward the engine. If a joint will not pull up tight, check the collar orientation first.
Will these fit my CJ360?
Not as they come. The CJ360’s 2-into-1 exhaust uses bigger headers and its own collar. These can be ground and bent to fit — the specs are in our CJ360 exhaust collar guide. You will also want two of the larger graphite exhaust gaskets for the header-to-collector joints.
Should I replace the exhaust gaskets while I am in there?
Yes. The copper crush gaskets sit in the exhaust port right where you are working, and they are usually buried under carbon and squashed flat by the time you get there. A copper gasket is generally good for three or four on-and-off cycles with the header before it needs replacing.
Do these fit a CB450 or CB500T?
No, and we do not currently stock a collar for those bikes.
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Last updated: August 2026
