Ignition Point Set | Honda CB500K / CB550 / CB750
If your four-cylinder Honda is stuttering, missing, hard to start, or dead in the water, worn contact points are one of the first places to look. This is the complete set — both the 1-4 and the 2-3 points — so you fix both sides of the ignition in one go.
Why You Need This
Contact points are a wear item. After decades of service (or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first), the faces get pitted, the spring tension weakens, and the gap drifts out of spec. When that happens the spark timing gets sloppy and your CB500K, CB550, or CB750 starts running on three cylinders, refusing to idle, or refusing to start at all. Swapping in a fresh set is the most reliable way to restore clean, consistent spark timing — and it's part of CMC's standard 1,500-mile tune-up interval for these bikes.
This set ships as a pair because every four-cylinder Honda in this family uses two contact breakers — one for cylinders 1 and 4 (the left point), and one for cylinders 2 and 3 (the right point). Replacing only one side leaves you chasing timing problems on the other. Get both, do both.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Replaces OEM Part Numbers | 30203-300-154, 30203-300-005 (1-4 points); 30204-300-154, 30204-300-005 (2-3 points) |
| Fits Models | CB500K (1971–1973), CB550K (1974–1978), CB550F (1975–1977), CB750A (1976–1978), CB750KA (1977–1978), CB750FA (1977–1978) |
| Sold As | Set of 2 (one 1-4 point, one 2-3 point — both sides in one kit) |
| Point Gap Spec | 0.012"–0.016" (0.3–0.4 mm) |
| Service Life | Inspect and adjust every 1,500 mi / 2,400 km; plan to replace around 6,000 mi / 9,600 km |
Note: This set fits the four-cylinder Honda family only (CB500K, CB550, CB750). It does not fit the CB500T parallel twin, which uses a completely different ignition points assembly shared with the CB450 and CL450.
What's in the Kit
- 1 x Contact Point — cylinders 1 & 4 (left point)
- 1 x Contact Point — cylinders 2 & 3 (right point)
Installation
Difficulty: Intermediate
Tools needed: 12V test lamp, feeler gauge (0.012" leaf), flathead screwdriver, and — for dynamic timing — a stroboscopic timing light.
- Pull the spark plugs so the engine turns over easily by hand.
- Remove the point cover on the left side of the engine at the crankshaft to expose the two contact breakers.
- Rotate the crankshaft until the slipper on the 1-4 contact breaker is sitting on the highest point of the cam lobe. Set that gap to 0.012"–0.016" (0.3–0.4 mm) with a feeler gauge.
- Repeat for the 2-3 contact breaker, rotating the crank to the highest point on that side before measuring.
- Static-time the 1-4 side with a 12V test lamp clipped to the primary cord connection, aligning the "F" (1-4) mark with the timing mark when the lamp lights.
- Do the same for the 2-3 side using the opposite contact breaker's primary cord.
- Dynamic-time with a stroboscopic timing light once the engine is warmed up. The strobe method is what gets you to truly dead-on timing.
Keep your kill switch OFF between checks. If the kill switch is ON and the points happen to be closed, you'll be running continuous current through the coils and you can cook them. The test lamp procedure is quick — only power the coils when you're actively reading the lamp.
Tip from the video: Before you install fresh points, it's worth pulling the mechanical advance mechanism, cleaning it, and re-greasing it. A gummed-up advancer will throw your dynamic timing off no matter how carefully you set the static gap. A small dab of white grease on the felt wick keeps the follower lubricated after install.
Our full walkthrough on static and dynamic timing for the CB500K, CB550, CB750, CB350F, and CB400F four-cylinders — same process for all of them. Watch it once all the way through before you pop the point cover. We also have a dedicated ignition system troubleshooting video and a mechanical advance service video in the how-to library if you run into trouble.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does this include the points for both sides of the engine?
Yes. This set includes one 1-4 point (the left contact breaker) and one 2-3 point (the right contact breaker). You get everything you need to replace both sides in a single purchase. There's no need to buy two "sets" — it's already a pair.
How do I know if my points are bad?
The classic symptoms are stuttering, missing on one or two cylinders, hard starting, or a bike that won't start at all. You can also pull the point cover and look — if the contact faces are pitted, burned, or rough, it's time. Point gap also drifts over miles and vibration, so even a healthy-looking set can throw your timing off. CMC's recommendation is to inspect and re-set every 1,500 miles, and plan to replace at around 6,000 miles.
Will this fit my CB500T?
No. The CB500T is a parallel twin that shares its ignition points with the CB450 and CL450. This set is for the four-cylinder CB500K (1971–1973), not the CB500T. If you're on a CB500T, you want our CB450 / CB500T points set instead.
What's the point gap spec?
0.012"–0.016" (0.3–0.4 mm) per the Honda CB550 factory service manual, with a service limit of 0.024". Set it as small as you can reliably pinch the feeler gauge between the pads without binding. Adjust the 1-4 side first, then the 2-3 side.
How is this different from the Ignition Rebuild Kit?
The points set is just the contact points — both sides. Our Ignition Rebuild Kit bundles the points with fresh condensers and our allen-head mounting screw conversion kit, so it's the "everything you need for a proper ignition tune-up" version. If your condensers are still healthy and you just need fresh contact faces, the points set alone is fine. If you're doing a full ignition overhaul, grab the rebuild kit and save the hassle.
Do I need a strobe timing light, or is the test-lamp method good enough?
Static timing with a 12V test lamp gets you close — Honda's factory procedure uses exactly that method, and in most cases the bike will run fine on static alone. But a stroboscopic timing light is what the CB550 factory service manual recommends for the most accurate timing, because it lets you see the "F" mark light up in real time at operating temperature. If you have access to one, use it for final adjustment. If not, nail the static procedure and your bike will still be in great shape.
You Might Also Need
For the full timing procedure with photos and a written walkthrough, see our How to set the ignition timing on the Honda CB500K / CB550 knowledge base article.
Last updated: April 2026
