15 Amp Glass Fuses | Honda CT90 / CB175 / CB200 / CB350 / CB360 / CB450 / CB500T
Every vintage Honda has at least one 15-amp main fuse protecting the harness. When it blows — and eventually it will — you need a matching 30mm glass tube fuse on hand or the bike won't go anywhere. Sold in packs of 5 so you always have spares in the tool kit.
Why You Need This
Vintage Honda motorcycles run the entire positive-side wiring harness through a single main fuse. Short a wire to the frame, overload a circuit, or get a bad connection that draws too much current — the fuse blows, and the bike dies. That's by design. It's the only thing keeping a frayed wire from turning into a melted harness.
The problem is that nobody stocks the original 30mm glass tubes at the gas station anymore. The ones that come with modern fuse-assortment kits are the wrong size, the wrong amperage, or both. These are the correct-amperage, correct-length glass tube fuses for the CT90, CB175, CB200, CB350, CB360, CB450, CB500T, and their CL/SL/CJ variants.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Replaces OEM Part Numbers | 38201-250-000, 98200-11500 |
| Amperage | 15A |
| Fuse Style | Glass tube |
| Length | 30mm (7mm longer than the smaller-fuse-box CB550/CB750 factory units — see Note below) |
| Fits Models | CT90 / Trail 90 (1966–1978), CB175 / CL175 (1968–1973), SL175 (1970–1972), CB200 (1973–1976), CL200 (1974), CL350 / CB350 K0–K5 (1968–1973), CB350G (1973), SL350 (1969–1973), CL360 K0–K1 / CB360G / CB360T (1974–1976), CJ360T (1976–1977), CL450 / CB450 K0–K7 (1965–1974), CB500T (1975–1976) |
| Sold As | Pack of 5 — keep spares on the bike |
Does NOT fit — smaller fuse box: CB550 K0–K1, CB550 K (1976), CB750 K0–K8, CB750 F2–F3, and CB750A (1977–1978) have a smaller fuse box designed for ~23mm factory fuses. These 15A glass fuses are 30mm long — they'll fit between the contacts and carry current, but the fuse-box lid may not close without notching or modification. For those bikes, upgrade to our ATC Blade Fuse (15A) and a Posi-Lock Blade Fuse Holder instead.
Model-Specific Notes
- Single-fuse bikes (CT90, CB175 / CL175 / SL175, CB200 / CL200, CB350 / CL350 / SL350, CB450 / CL450): This 15A is your one and only main fuse. Protects the entire harness.
- Three-fuse bikes (CB360 / CL360 / CJ360 and CB500T): This 15A is the main fuse in a 3-position fuse box. It's paired with two 7A sub-fuses (one for the headlight, one for the position lamp / taillight / meter lamp). You'll want both sizes on hand — grab a pack of 7.5A sub-fuses to go with this set.
Installation
Difficulty: Beginner — under five minutes once you find the fuse box.
Tools needed: none to swap the fuse; rubbing alcohol and fine steel wool if the contacts are corroded.
- Find the fuse box. On most of these bikes it's under the seat or behind a side cover.
- Pop the blown fuse out gently. The clips are decades old and brittle — don't pry sideways or twist. Lift straight up.
- If the contacts look dark, green, or crusty, clean them with a drop of rubbing alcohol on a swatch of fine steel wool. Wipe dry before re-inserting.
- Press the new fuse straight down into the clips. Close the lid.
- Stash the leftover spares somewhere you can reach them from the roadside — under-seat tool kit, tank-bag pocket, wherever.
Fuse keeps blowing? Don't bypass it. A fuse that fails repeatedly is telling you there's a short somewhere in the harness — a 12V+ wire touching the frame, a melted insulation spot, a shorted switch. Bypassing the fuse box protects nothing and risks a wiring-harness fire. Trace the short before you ride. Our Single Fuse Headlight & Gauge Light Circuit and Three Fuse Headlight & Gauge Light Circuit videos walk through the circuits on both architectures so you know what's downstream of each fuse.
Our Single Fuse Headlight & Gauge Light Circuit (Pre-1973) video walks through how the 15A main fuse protects the entire electrical system on the CT90, CB350, and CB450 family. For the post-1974 three-fuse architecture (CB360 / CB500T), see our companion video: The Three Fuse Headlight & Gauge Light Circuit (Post 1974).
Frequently Asked Questions
My factory fuse measures about 25mm — will your 30mm fuse fit?
On the bikes listed in our fitment chart (CT90, CB175, CB200, CB350, CB360, CB450, CB500T and their CL/SL/CJ variants), yes — the fuse-box contacts are spaced to accept the 30mm length. Our 30mm fuses have been shipping to these bikes for years. On the CB550 and CB750 family listed in the Does-NOT-fit note above, the contacts accept the fuse but the lid is the problem.
Does my bike have one fuse or three?
Single-fuse bikes: CT90, CB175, CL175, SL175, CB200, CL200, CB350, CL350, SL350, CB450, CL450. Three-fuse bikes: CB360, CL360, CJ360, CB500T. If you pop your seat and see a single in-line fuse holder, you've got a single-fuse bike and you need this 15A by itself. If you see a three-position fuse box, you need this 15A plus two 7A sub-fuses.
Why does my fuse keep blowing?
The fuse is doing its job — something downstream is drawing too much current. Check for a bare wire touching the frame or engine case, a shorted switch, a stuck starter solenoid, or a connector that's been crushed by a seat hinge. Fix the short, then replace the fuse. Don't bypass the fuse box; a melted wiring harness costs a lot more than a 15A fuse.
Can I convert my bike to modern blade fuses?
Yes. Our ATC Blade Fuse (15A) paired with a Posi-Lock Blade Fuse Holder drops into any of these bikes with a quick wire splice. Blade fuses are cheaper, more widely available, and don't break if you drop them. Worth considering on any vintage Honda you plan to actually ride.
Can I use a higher-amperage fuse to stop it from blowing?
No. The 15A rating is what the wiring harness is engineered for. Going up to a 20A or 25A fuse defeats the point of having a fuse at all — your wiring will overheat before the fuse blows. Stick with 15A and fix the underlying short.
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Last updated: April 2026
