Ignition Coil | Honda CB350 / CB360 / CB450 / CB500T
Weak or intermittent spark is one of the most common reasons a vintage Honda twin won't start or runs poorly. If you've already replaced your points and condensers and still have ignition trouble, the coils are the next thing to check. These reproduction ignition coils are a direct fit for your Honda CB350, CL350, SL350, CB360, CL360, CJ360, CB450, CL450, and CB500T — they mount to the stock bracket with no modification.
Why You Need This
Over time, ignition coils deteriorate internally and produce weak spark — a dull white or yellow arc instead of the bright blue-purple you need for reliable combustion. A failing coil can cause hard starting, misfires at higher RPMs, or one dead cylinder. Because these coils contain thousands of turns of fine copper wire wound on an iron core, there's no way to repair them — replacement is the only fix.
Each coil includes a permanently attached spark plug wire. Coils are sold individually — you need two per bike.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Replaces OEM Parts | 30700-KE2-942, 30700-098-153, 30700-098-158, 30700-259-810, 30500-312-007, 30500-286-004, 30500-286-007, 30500-310-670, 30510-369-003, 30510-369-004, 30520-369-003, 30520-369-004, 30500-292-672 |
| Fits Models | CB350 K0–K5 (1968–1973), CL350 K0–K5 (1968–1973), SL350 K0–K2 (1969–1973), CB360G (1974), CB360T (1975–1976), CL360 K0–K1 (1974–1975), CJ360T (1976–1977), CB450 K0–K7 (1965–1974), CL450 K0–K6 (1967–1974), CB500T (1975–1976) |
| Minimum Resistance | 3.5 ohms |
| Sold As | Individual (2 required per bike) |
| Includes | Coil with permanently attached spark plug wire |
Note: The CB450 K0 "Black Bomber" (1965–1968) uses different wiring from all later models. The ignition circuit logic is the same, but verify your wire routing against your model's wiring diagram before installation.
Note: The "regular" spark plug boot (SKU 3009) can work on the CB450/CB500T but it will be snug. We recommend the angled spark plug boot for a better fit on those models.
Installation
Difficulty: Beginner
Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 10mm wrench
- Disconnect the negative terminal on your battery before starting.
- Unplug the points wire and the 12V power wire from the old coil.
- Remove the coil mounting bolt and slide the old coil off the bracket.
- Mount the new coil on the stock bracket and tighten the mounting bolt.
- Reconnect the wiring: the left coil connects to the yellow wire (left points) and the right coil connects to the blue wire (right points). The black wire is 12V positive. Make sure all connections are clean and corrosion-free.
- Thread the spark plug boot securely into the end of the spark plug wire — make sure the threaded connector goes straight into the wire core, not off to the side into the insulation.
- Reconnect the battery and set your ignition timing.
Left coil = yellow wire = left points = left cylinder. Right coil = blue wire = right points = right cylinder. If the wiring is crossed, the cylinders fire at the wrong time and the bike won't start.
Our ignition system wiring and diagnostic video walks through the full circuit — from ground through the points, coils, kill switch, and back to the battery — with step-by-step testing of each component.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my ignition coil is bad?
Two tests: First, check for static continuity — connect a test light to ground, turn on the key and kill switch, and probe the coil wire where the points connect. If the test light doesn't illuminate, the coil has no continuity and needs replacing. Second, test under load with the bike running — loosely set the spark plug cap on the plug, then pull it off. The RPMs should drop because that cylinder stops firing. If pulling the cap off makes no difference, the coil isn't firing under load and needs replacing.
Do I need to replace both coils at the same time?
Not necessarily — you can replace just the bad one. But if one coil has failed from age, the other is likely not far behind. Many riders replace both at the same time for peace of mind and consistent spark across both cylinders.
Will this coil work with the Shockwave electronic ignition?
Yes. The Shockwave electronic ignition is designed to work with stock-style ignition coils that have a minimum resistance of 3.5 ohms. This coil meets that requirement.
Does the left/right coil matter?
The coils themselves are identical — there is no left or right coil. What matters is the wiring: the left coil must connect to the yellow wire (left points) and fire the left spark plug. The right coil must connect to the blue wire (right points) and fire the right spark plug. If crossed, the engine fires at the wrong time.
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Last updated: March 2026
