Ignition Coil | Honda CB175 / CL175 / SL175 / CB200 / CL200
Weak spark keeps a lot of 175s and 200s parked. Once you've ruled out the spark plugs, the points, and the condenser, the coil is what's left — and there's a good chance yours is still the one Honda installed. A tired coil throws a dull white or yellow spark instead of the bright blue-purple you need. This is a factory-style replacement that bolts onto the existing bracket with no modification.
Why You Need This
Ignition coils don't fail in a way you can see. The windings degrade internally, the spark gets weaker, and the bike starts getting harder to fire, misfires, or feels flat under load. There's nothing to rebuild — a coil is thousands of turns of fine wire sealed inside a molded body, so replacement is the only fix.
The CB175 and CB200 family uses one ignition coil with two non-removable spark plug wires, and that single coil feeds both cylinders. This is the detail that trips up anyone coming from a CB350 or CB360, which carry two separate coils. The difference is the crankshaft: the 175 and 200 run a 360-degree crank with a single set of points, while the 350 and 360 run a 180-degree crank and need a set of points and a coil for each side.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Replaces OEM Parts | 30400-306-672, 30400-306-673, 30400-313-003, 30500-216-405 |
| Fits Models | CB175 K0 / K3–K7 (1968–1973), CL175 K0 / K3–K7 (1968–1973), SL175 K0–K1 (1970–1972), CB200 K0 (1973–1974), CB200T (1975–1976), CL200 (1974) |
| Electrical System | 12V |
| Includes | Coil with two non-removable spark plug wires |
| Sold As | Sold individually — one coil per bike |
Note: The spark plug wires ship extra long on purpose. Cut them to length once the coil is mounted and you've settled on your routing.
Model-Specific Notes
- SL175: This coil fits the SL175 the same way the factory Honda coil does, but the spark plug wires exit from the opposite end of the coil. Worth knowing before you route and trim them.
Installation
Difficulty: Beginner
- Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before you start, so nothing shorts out while you're working.
- Note where each wire lands on the old coil, then disconnect it and free it from the mounting bracket.
- Mount the new coil on the existing bracket. No modification needed.
- Connect the blue wire to the points and the black wire to the 12-volt harness. Make sure the mounting bracket and both connections are clean and corrosion-free.
- Route the spark plug wires the way your bike needs them, then trim them to length.
- Thread a spark plug boot onto the end of each wire. The terminal has to bite into the wire core itself, not off to the side into the insulation.
- Reconnect the battery.
Keep the ignition and the kill switch off while you work. The coil stays energized with the power on, and there's no reason to let it sit there heating up while you're making connections.
Our CB175 / CB200 ignition timing video covers the whole job on this family — telling the two points plate styles apart, setting the gap, and finding the F mark on the rotor. The coil turns up along the way as part of the circuit you're testing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many ignition coils does my CB175 or CB200 use?
One. A single coil with two permanently attached plug wires feeds both cylinders. If you're used to a CB350 or CB360, that's the difference — those bikes carry two separate coils and two sets of points, because they run a 180-degree crankshaft. The 175 and 200 use a 360-degree crank and a single set of points.
Will this fit my SL175?
Yes. The SL175 is part of the same family and runs the same 12-volt ignition system as the CB175 and CL175. One thing to know going in: the spark plug wires exit from the opposite end of the coil compared to the factory SL175 unit, so plan your routing before you trim them.
Will this work on my 6-volt bike?
No. This is a 12-volt coil. The CB125, CL125, and CD175 run 6-volt systems and take a different coil — they aren't interchangeable, even where the bikes look close.
How do I know the coil is what's wrong?
Work through the simpler parts first. Weak spark on these bikes usually traces to the plugs, the points, or the condenser, and all three are easier to check. If those are all good and you're still getting a dull white or yellow spark instead of a bright blue-purple one, the coil is the next thing to change.
The spark plug wires are longer than I need. Can I cut them?
Yes — that's what they're for. They ship long so you can route them the way your bike needs and then trim. Cut them once the coil is mounted and the routing is settled, then thread the boots onto the fresh ends.
You Might Also Need
Last updated: July 2026
