Spark Plug (NGK D8EA) | Honda CB200 / CL200
The right plug for a CB200 or CL200 isn't a guess. The correct match for these engines is the NGK D8EA — plenty of plugs will thread into the head, but the wrong heat range fouls, misfires, or runs hot. This is the copper-core D8EA that matches the CB200 and CL200 from the factory.
Why You Need This
A tired or wrong-heat-range plug is the cheapest thing to rule out when a CB200 runs rough, fouls, or drops a cylinder. The D8EA is the correct reach and heat range for the CB200 and CL200 Scrambler. Run the right plug and you get clean starts, a steady idle, and a tip you can actually read when you're dialing in the carbs.
The CB200 and CL200 are based on the CB175, but they do not use the same plug. The CB175 / CL175 / SL175 take an NGK D8HA — if you've got a 175, grab our NGK D8HA for the CB175 family instead.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Plug Type | NGK D8EA (copper core) |
| Spark Plug Gap | 0.024–0.028 in (0.6–0.7 mm) |
| OEM Part Numbers | 98069-58717, 98069-58717-S, 98069-58720, 98069-58721 |
| Fits Models | CB200K0 (1973–1974), CB200T (1975–1976), CL200 (1974) |
| Sold As | Sold individually (you need two) |
Note: Sold individually — a CB200 / CL200 takes two plugs, one per cylinder. Doing carb jetting? Grab a few extra so you can pull fresh plugs and read the tip color as you tune.
Installation
Difficulty: Beginner
Tools needed: Spark plug socket (18 mm), feeler gauge
- Each plug ships with a removable terminal nut on top. If your plug cap screws onto a bare stud, unscrew the terminal nut first to expose the threads.
- Check the gap with a feeler gauge and set it to 0.024–0.028 in (0.6–0.7 mm) if needed. Adjust only by bending the outer (side) electrode.
- Lightly coat the threads with a little oil, thread the plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading, then snug it with the socket.
Tip: When you're jetting the carbs, pull a plug and read the porcelain around the center electrode — light tan to chocolate brown is correct, black sooty carbon means rich (or a dirty air filter / too-cold a plug), and a white, blistered tip means lean or running too hot.
Short clip on the terminal nut vs. terminal stud — how to tell which your plug cap needs and how to switch between them.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do I have to unscrew the terminal nut?
Older Honda plug caps thread onto a bare stud, while the plug ships with a screw-on terminal nut covering it. If your cap won't seat, unscrew the terminal nut to expose the stud underneath. Some are on tight — grip the nut with pliers and back it off. See our guide on terminal nut vs. terminal stud.
Will this fit my CB175?
No. The CB175, CL175, and SL175 are closely related engines but use a different plug — the NGK D8HA. Use our D8HA for the CB175 family on those bikes.
What gap should I set?
0.024–0.028 in (0.6–0.7 mm). New plugs come close to spec, but it's worth a quick check with a feeler gauge before they go in. Don't confuse this with the contact-point gap, which is a different, smaller measurement.
How many do I need?
Two — one per cylinder. They're sold individually, so add two to your cart (plus a spare or two if you're tuning).
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Last updated: June 2026
