Posi-Lock Blade Fuse Holder | Vintage Honda
Glass fuses went obsolete decades ago. They're getting harder to find, they break easily, and the factory holders that take them corrode and fall apart. This universal Posi-Lock holder converts your vintage Honda to modern ATC blade fuses you can buy at any auto parts store.
Why You Need This
Most vintage Hondas protect the harness through a single glass fuse, and the stock holder for it is one of the first electrical parts to fail. The terminals corrode, the plastic gets brittle, and a marginal connection mimics a blown fuse. Blade fuses became standard equipment on cars and bikes by the late 1980s, so you can grab a spare at any gas station instead of hunting for the right glass tube.
The Posi-Lock blade holder converts your circuit to standard ATC/ATO blade fuses, and it takes the mini size too. It's American-made and fits the stock fuse-holder location, so the swap is clean. It wires in with just a pair of wire strippers, no crimping or soldering, in about five minutes.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Fuse Type | ATC / ATO blade fuse (standard and mini) |
| Wire Gauge | 14–24 AWG (most vintage Honda harness wire is 16 AWG) |
| Fits Models | Universal — any vintage Honda: CT90 / Trail 90, CB175 / CL175 / SL175, CB200 / CL200, CB350 / CL350 / SL350, CB360 / CL360 / CJ360, CB450 / CL450 / CB500T, CB350F / CB400F, CB500K / CB550 / CB750 |
| Sold As | Sold individually |
Model-Specific Notes
- Single-fuse bikes (CB175 / CL175, CB200, CB350 / CL350, CB450 / CL450, CT90): One 15A fuse protects the whole harness, so one holder and a 15A blade fuse does it.
- Multi-fuse bikes (CB360 / CL360 / CJ360, CB500T, CB550, CB750): These run a fuse box with a 15A main fuse plus 7A sub-fuses, so you'll need one holder per position. Honda's 7A sub-fuse circuits take a 7.5A ATC blade fuse, the nearest standard size.
Installation
Difficulty: Beginner
Tools needed: Wire strippers, needle-nose pliers
- Strip about 1/4" (6 mm) of insulation off each wire end.
- Slide the threaded caps over the wire ends.
- Fan out the loose strands. Do not twist them together first.
- Thread each cap onto the body while keeping light pressure on the wire, until it draws down snug.
- Give the wire a tug. If it pulls out, strip a hair more insulation and redo it.
- Seat the holder in the stock fuse-holder location. You may need to gently bend the mounting tab for a clean fit. Push in your blade fuse.
Our fuse holder upgrade video installs this holder on a CB350, swapping the old glass-fuse coffin holder for the blade holder in the stock location.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does this take glass tube fuses?
No. This holder takes ATC/ATO blade fuses only. If you want to keep the classic glass tube fuse, use our Posi-Lock Glass Tube Fuse Holder instead.
Standard or mini blade fuses?
Both. The holder takes a standard full-size ATC/ATO blade fuse, and a mini blade fuse will fit in a pinch.
Does it really install without any tools?
You need a pair of wire strippers to prep the wire ends. From there the caps thread on by hand, with no crimping or soldering, so the whole swap takes about five minutes.
How many do I need, and what amperage?
Single-fuse bikes (CB175, CB350, CB450, CT90 and their CL/SL variants) need one holder and a 15A blade fuse. Multi-fuse bikes (CB360, CB500T, CB550, CB750) use a fuse box, so you'll need one holder per position: a 15A for the main and a 7.5A for each of Honda's 7A sub-fuse circuits.
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Last updated: June 2026
