Clutch Rebuild Kit | Honda CB350 / CL350 / SL350 / CB360 / CL360 / CJ360
Clutch slipping when you twist the throttle? If there's no go when you give it gas, the friction discs have probably had it. This kit has everything you need to rebuild the clutch—eight European-made friction discs and a set of four performance clutch springs that provide more clamping force than the factory Honda springs.
Why You Need This
Clutch friction discs wear down over time—especially if the cable was adjusted too tight and the clutch was slipping without you knowing it. When the friction material is gone, the discs glaze over, the clutch slips under load, and eventually you're twisting the throttle with the engine revving but the bike not pulling. At that point, no amount of cable adjustment will fix it.
The factory springs lose tension over 40+ years too. Weak springs mean less clamping force between the plates, which accelerates disc wear. This kit replaces both—new discs plus stiffer performance springs that clamp harder than stock.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Replaces OEM Part Numbers | 22401-323-003, 22401-369-000, 22401-323-000, 22401-275-000 (friction discs); 91301-426-010, 91301-393-000, 91309-286-000, 91312-PC6-003, 91305-283-000, 91355-415-000, 91307-283-000, 91304-HB3-003, 91302-943-003, 91302-200-000 (springs); 11394-292-306, 11394-292-010, 11394-292-000, 11691-283-306, 11691-283-000 (gaskets) |
| Fits Models | CB350 K0–K5 (1968–1973), CL350 K0–K5 (1968–1973), SL350 K0–K2 (1969–1973), CB360G/T (1974–1976), CL360 (1974–1975), CJ360T (1976–1977) |
| Friction Disc Origin | European-made |
| Friction Disc Thickness (new) | 2.62–2.78 mm (per Honda service manual) |
| Service Limit | Replace discs if under 2.3 mm thick |
| Sold As | Complete kit (8 friction discs + 4 performance springs + gaskets) |
Note: This kit includes the right crankcase cover gasket and clutch adjuster cover gasket—the two gaskets you'll need to open to access the clutch. You do NOT need to buy a separate gasket kit just for a clutch rebuild.
What's in the Kit
- Clutch friction discs × 8
- Performance clutch springs × 4 (higher clamping force than stock)
- Right crankcase cover gasket
- Clutch adjuster cover gasket
Installation
Difficulty: Intermediate
Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 8mm and 10mm sockets, flat-blade screwdriver, oil drain pan, torque wrench
- Drain the engine oil and remove the right crankcase cover.
- Remove the oil filter (clean it or replace it while you're in there).
- Unscrew the four 6mm bolts from the clutch spring pressure plate and remove the springs, pressure plate, friction discs, and steel plates.
- Inspect the steel plates—lay each one on a flat surface (granite or glass) and check for warping with a feeler gauge. If a plate rocks or you can slide a 0.2mm feeler gauge under it, replace it. If they're just glazed, sand them on a flat surface to remove the glaze and get back to raw metal.
- Soak the new friction discs in 10W-40 motor oil overnight (or at minimum 30 minutes) before installation. They must go in wet.
- Reassemble by alternating steel plates and friction discs. Pay attention to the order—some bikes have one steel plate that's slightly different and goes in first. Refer to your service manual for the exact stacking sequence.
- Install the new performance springs and torque the pressure plate bolts evenly. Do not over-torque—the spring posts can break.
- Clean the oil pickup screen and lower crankcase while everything is apart.
- Install the new right crankcase cover gasket, reinstall the cover, and refill with fresh oil.
- Adjust the clutch cable free play at the handlebar lever—you should have 10–20mm of free play before the cable engages.
Clean the oil pickup screen while you're in there. Worn clutch friction material turns into sludge that clogs the screen and starves the engine of oil. If you're rebuilding the clutch, the screen almost certainly needs cleaning.
Our clutch rebuild video walks through the complete teardown, inspection, and reassembly—including how to check the steel plates for warpage, how to sand glazed steels, and the correct disc/plate stacking order.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my clutch needs rebuilding?
The most common symptom is slipping under load—the engine revs climb but the bike doesn't accelerate, especially in higher gears or uphill. You may also notice a burning smell or find dark sludge in the oil. If the clutch drags (bike creeps forward with the lever pulled in), that's usually a cable adjustment issue, not worn discs.
Do I need to replace the steel plates too?
Usually not. The steel plates are reusable unless they're warped or deeply scored. Lay each one on a flat surface and check with a feeler gauge—if it rocks or a 0.2mm gauge slides under, replace it. If they're just glazed (darkened from heat), sand them on a flat surface to remove the glaze and they're good to reuse.
Will this kit fit my CB350G (1973)?
Yes. The CB350G uses the same clutch as the CB350 K-series. This kit fits all CB350, CL350, and SL350 models from 1968 through 1973.
What's the difference between this and just buying friction discs?
This kit includes performance clutch springs along with the discs. After 40+ years, the factory springs have lost tension and don't clamp the plates together as tightly as they should. Replacing both at the same time gives you a clutch that feels better than new. The kit also includes the gaskets you'll need to open the crankcase cover.
Do I need to soak the friction discs before installing them?
Yes. Soak them in 10W-40 motor oil overnight before installation. The clutch runs wet (in oil), and dry friction discs will grab too aggressively and can damage the steel plates on first engagement.
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Last updated: March 2026
