Clutch Rebuild Kit | Honda CB350 / CL350 / SL350 / CB360 / CL360 / CJ360
No go when you twist the throttle? If your Honda 350 or 360 twin revs up but the bike barely moves, your clutch friction discs have likely given up. This complete rebuild kit has everything you need to restore full clutch engagement and get back on the road.
Why You Need This
The clutch on the Honda CB350 and CB360 family is a multiple disc wet type design that transmits power from the crankshaft to the transmission mainshaft through friction between the clutch discs and steel plates. Over time, the friction material wears down — sometimes unevenly if the cable was adjusted too tight, causing the clutch to slip under load. Once the discs are worn past their service limit, no amount of cable adjustment will fix the problem.
This kit includes eight European-made friction discs and a set of four performance clutch springs that provide more clamping force over the factory Honda springs. The upgraded springs help ensure positive engagement even as the new discs break in.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Replaces OEM Part Numbers | 22401-323-003, 22401-369-000, 22401-323-000, 22401-275-000 |
| Fits Models | CB350 K0–K5 (1968–1973), CL350 K0–K5 (1968–1973), SL350 K0–K2 (1969–1973), CB360G (1974), CB360T (1975–1976), CL360 K0–K1 (1974–1975), CJ360T (1976–1977) |
| Sold As | Complete Kit |
Important Notes
- Soak friction discs before installation. The new friction discs must be soaked in 10W-40 motor oil overnight before installation. The clutch must go together wet — dry discs will glaze and slip immediately.
- Steel plates are usually reusable. Inspect each steel plate by laying it on a flat surface such as a piece of granite or glass. If the plate rocks or a feeler gauge slides under easily, the plate is warped beyond the 0.2 mm service limit and should be replaced. If the steels are just glazed (dark, shiny finish from heat), clean them with fine sandpaper on a flat surface to remove the glaze and expose fresh metal.
- Do not over-torque the spring bolts. The four spring bolts do not require high torque. Over-tightening can break the spring posts on the clutch basket.
- Readjust the clutch after installation. New discs change the clutch engagement point. Readjust the lifter mechanism and cable to restore proper lever free play (10–20 mm at the lever tip). See our CB350 / CB360 Clutch Adjustment Guide for the full procedure.
Model-Specific Notes
- CB360 / CL360 / CJ360: You must remove the right exhaust muffler and right foot peg before removing the right crankcase cover. The 350 family does not require this step.
- All models: The friction discs, steel plates, and springs are the same across the entire CB350 and CB360 family. The clutch architecture is identical — the only difference is right-side access on the 360.
Kit Contents
- Friction discs (8) — European-made replacements
- Clutch springs (4) — performance springs with increased clamping force
Installation
Difficulty: Intermediate
Tools needed: 6mm socket or wrench, flat-blade screwdriver, 14mm wrench, 10mm wrench, feeler gauge (optional, for steel plate inspection)
- Drain the engine oil.
- Remove the right crankcase cover. On the CB360, remove the right exhaust muffler and right foot peg first.
- Unscrew the four 6mm bolts and remove the clutch spring pressure plate, friction discs, and clutch plates.
- Inspect the steel plates — lay each one on a flat surface and check for warping with a feeler gauge. If the plate rocks or the gauge slides under easily, replace it. Steel plates are typically reusable unless they are warped beyond 0.2 mm or deeply scored.
- If the steels are glazed (dark, shiny finish from heat), clean them with fine sandpaper on a flat surface to remove the glaze and expose fresh metal.
- Soak the new friction discs in 10W-40 motor oil overnight before installation. The discs must go in wet.
- Reassemble the clutch by alternating friction discs and steel plates. Pay attention to the order — the sequence of discs, plates, snap rings, and washers matters.
- Install the new performance springs and tighten the four spring bolts evenly. Do not over-torque these bolts — you can break the spring towers on the clutch basket.
- Install a new right crankcase cover gasket and reinstall the cover.
- Clean the oil pickup screen and oil filter while you have the right side open — this is the best time to do it.
- Refill with fresh engine oil and adjust the clutch cable. Target 10–20 mm of free play at the lever tip.
Clutch adjustment tip: After installing new discs, readjust the clutch lifter mechanism on the right side of the engine. Turn the adjuster screw counterclockwise until you feel it touch the push rod, then back it off about a quarter turn. Make your final fine adjustment at the handlebar cable adjuster. The lever should have 10–20 mm of free play at the tip before you feel it engage — if the lever is tight with no play, the cable is too tight and will cause premature disc wear.
Our clutch rebuild video walks through the full disassembly, inspection, and reassembly process on a vintage Honda twin — including how to check the steel plates for warping and how to properly soak and install the new friction discs.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my clutch needs rebuilding?
The most common symptom is clutch slip — the engine revs climb when you open the throttle, but the bike does not accelerate proportionally. This is especially noticeable under load, like going uphill or accelerating hard in higher gears. If adjusting the cable does not fix the slip, the friction discs are worn past their service limit of 2.3 mm and need replacing.
Do I need to replace the steel plates too?
Usually not. The steel plates are reusable unless they are warped beyond the 0.2 mm service limit or deeply scored. Lay each one on a flat surface — a piece of granite or glass works well — and check for rocking. If a feeler gauge slides under easily, the plate is warped and should be replaced. If the steels are just glazed from heat, clean them with fine sandpaper on a flat surface to get back to raw metal.
Does this kit fit both the CB350 and CB360?
Yes. The Honda CB350 and CB360 families share the same clutch architecture. This kit fits all CB350 K0–K5, CL350 K0–K5, SL350 K0–K2, CB360G, CB360T, CL360 K0–K1, and CJ360T models.
What causes the clutch to "pop" when I squeeze the lever?
A clutch pop is typically caused by the clutch cable being adjusted too tight. When the cable has no free play, it pre-loads the lifter mechanism inside the right crankcase cover. The ball bearings in the lifter ride up on their ramps prematurely, and when you squeeze the lever they pop past the ramp — that is the pop you feel. The fix is to loosen the cable until the lever has 10–20 mm of free play at the tip before you feel the clutch engage.
Do I need to readjust the clutch after installing this kit?
Yes. New friction discs change the clutch engagement point, so you need to readjust both the lifter mechanism and the cable. Start at the lifter adjuster screw on the right side of the engine — turn it counterclockwise until it contacts the push rod, then back off about a quarter turn. Then fine-tune at the handlebar cable adjuster until you have 10–20 mm of free play at the lever tip. Our CB350 / CB360 Clutch Adjustment Guide walks through the full procedure.
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Last updated: March 2026
