Throttle Cable for Honda CB175 / CL175 / SL175 / CB200 / CL200
Replacement throttle cable for the Honda 175 and 200 twin-cylinder family. 1-into-2 split design — a single cable runs from the throttle grip and splits into two ends, one for each carburetor. Available in CB-length (road bikes) and longer CL/SL-length (scrambler/enduro). Replaces OEM Honda 17910-389-405 (CB175 / CL175 family) and 17910-313-405 (CB200 family).
Why You Need This
Your throttle cable is the direct mechanical link between your right hand and the engine. After 50 years, the inner wire stretches unevenly at the split ends, the housing kinks or cracks, and the cable starts dragging inside the housing. The diagnostic test is simple: roll the throttle, let go — the throttle should snap shut like a mousetrap. If it hangs, returns slow, or feels gritty when you work it, the cable is dry, frayed, or both.
These bikes are particularly sensitive to cable condition because the carburetors share one cable through the splitter. A dragging cable on one side prevents the carbs from synchronizing properly, which leads to uneven idle, surging, and the kind of carb-sync chase that never quite ends. New cable in good shape is the prerequisite for a clean carb sync.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|
| Replaces OEM Part Numbers | 17910-389-405 (CB175 / CL175 family), 17910-313-405 (CB200 family) |
| Fits Models | CB175 K0–K7 (1968–1973), CL175 K0–K7 (1968–1973), SL175 K0–K1 (1970–1972), CB200 K0/T (1973–1976), CL200 (1974) |
| Cable Type | 1-into-2 split (single cable from grip, two carburetor ends) |
| Length Options | CB-length (shorter, for CB175 / CB200 road routing) or CL/SL-length (longer, for CL175 / SL175 / CL200 scrambler/enduro routing) — select at checkout |
| Color Options | Gray housing |
| Throttle Grip Free Play | 10–15° of grip rotation (Honda CB200 / CL200 Service Manual p.8) |
| Quantity | Sold individually (one cable serves both carburetors) |
Important Notes
The splitter is one molded piece — it does not come apart. The cable arrives pre-assembled. Just install both lower ends on the carburetors and route the upper end to the throttle grip.
Smooth carb-end housing is correct. Original Honda cables had threaded carb-end housings that screwed into the carburetor top cap. Our replacement uses smooth housings, and the rubber locking boot at each end takes the place of the threaded interface — the boot has a hexagonal inside diameter that clamps onto the brass adjuster and locks it to the top cap. Both designs do the same job.
Carburetor sync is required after install. A new throttle cable changes the slack in the system. Plan to bench-sync the carburetors after installing the cable.
Model-Specific Notes
- CB175 / CB200 (road bikes): Use the shorter CB-length cable. Routing is direct from the right-side switch box, behind the headlight ear, around the steering head, under the left tank rubber, splitter at the frame backbone above the front engine mount.
- CL175 / SL175 / CL200 (scrambler/enduro): Use the longer CL/SL-length cable. Different bars and tank position require additional cable length for clean routing.
- Does NOT fit CB125, CB160, or CL160. Different engines, different carburetors, different cable architecture. Contact us if you have one of those models and we will point you to the correct part.
Installation
Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate. The cable swap is straightforward; the carb sync afterward is the time-consuming part.
Tools needed: Phillips or JIS screwdriver, 8 mm and 10 mm wrenches (for the upper jam nuts), 14 mm wrench (elbow jam nut), Marvel Mystery Oil or light machine oil, light grease for the throttle sleeve.
- Remove the old cable from the carburetors. Note which end goes to the left carb and which goes to the right.
- Disconnect from the throttle grip housing. Loosen the upper jam nut and slide the cable out of the throttle pipe.
- Lubricate the new cable before installing. Loop the cable so both ends point up. Drip 15–20 drops of Marvel Mystery Oil into each end. Let gravity pull the oil down the housing. Work the cable back and forth and let it hang for ten minutes. Repeat the other side.
- Lubricate the nylon throttle sleeve. Apply a thin layer of light grease to the sleeve and the inside of the throttle housing. A grease-and-oil slurry (light grease thinned with a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil) coats more evenly than pure grease.
- Route the new cable. Run from the right-hand switch box, behind the headlight ear, around the front of the steering head, and under the left-side rubber tank mount. The splitter rests against the frame backbone, just above the front engine mount.
- Install the lower ends. The longer cable, marked with a red stripe, goes to the right carburetor (rider's perspective, sitting on the bike). The shorter unmarked cable goes to the left carburetor.
- Set the carb-end slack. Thread the brass adjuster all the way in by hand (no wrench). Back it out until the slack just disappears — the slide is right at the point of lifting. Mark the adjuster position with a Sharpie. Then turn the adjuster two full turns back in to add the correct amount of slack. Slide the locking boot down over the adjuster so it grips the carb top cap. Repeat on the other side.
- Set the upper cable slack. Loosen the 14 mm jam nut on the upper elbow. Move the elbow to the position where the cable runs without binding, then snug the nut back down. The upper adjuster controls slack only between the throttle grip and the splitter — set it loose, with a small amount of grip play. Lock it with the 8 mm and 10 mm jam nuts.
- Test before riding. Roll the throttle. Let go. The cable should snap shut like a mousetrap. Throttle grip free play at the grip should be 10–15° of rotation. If it hangs or feels notchy, re-check the lube and the adjuster positions.
- Sync the carburetors. A new cable changes the slack distribution — bench-sync both progressive synchronization (slides moving together at all throttle positions) and idle synchronization (slides at the same height when the bike is idling at 1,200–1,500 rpm). See our 175/200 carb sync video and KB article below.
Our 175/200 carburetor synchronization video covers the full bench process and includes the cable installation steps. Watch this before installing the new cable so the sync afterward goes smoothly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How does the splitter come apart?
It doesn't. The splitter is a single molded piece. The cable arrives fully assembled — just install both lower ends on the carburetors and route the upper end up to the throttle grip. There is nothing to set up before the bike.
My old cable had threaded housings at the carburetor end. Why is the new one smooth?
Original Honda cables threaded directly into the carburetor top caps. Our replacement uses smooth housings with a rubber locking boot at each end — the boot has a hexagonal inside diameter that grips the brass adjuster and clamps it to the top cap. Both designs do the same job. The locking boot is the modern equivalent of the threaded interface.
Does the red mark on the cable mean the rider's right or the front-of-bike right?
Rider's right — sitting on the bike, looking forward. The red-marked, longer cable runs to the carburetor on your right hand side as you ride.
Why are the two lower cables different lengths?
Routing. The right carburetor is reached by running the cable over the frame for a clean, straight shot into the top of the adjuster. That route is longer than the direct shot to the left carburetor. The throw (how far the cable moves when you twist the throttle) is identical on both sides; only the housing length differs.
Does this fit my CB125, CB160, or CL160?
No. The 125 and 160 use different carburetors with different cable architecture. Contact us with your model and year and we will point you to the correct part.
How often should I lubricate this cable?
Lubricate before installing (cables ship dry from the factory). After that, an annual lube during your spring tune-up keeps things smooth. If the throttle starts feeling gritty or returns slowly, it is time to lube again. Cable lubers (the spray-can clamp tools) work fine but are optional — the U-loop method with Marvel Mystery Oil or any light machine oil works just as well.
How do I know if my throttle cable is actually the problem?
Roll the throttle and let go. A good cable returns instantly — snaps shut like a mousetrap. A worn cable hangs, drags, or returns slowly. Visual signs of replacement: bent or squashed barrel ends, rusty wire poking out of the housing, frayed strands at the barrel, cracked or chewed housing. If you see any of these, the cable is past saving. If it just feels gritty, you can usually save it with a fresh lube.
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Last updated: May 2026
